Nicolas di Felice brings together a community around Courrèges, and it is already a good thing that he has been there for a little over a year. His last show in September, held in a field he’s been to a festival before, showed the way things were going: glamorous, sleek, sexy and applauded by friends of French fashion. But it was that night’s after-party, held in a parking lot in the 18th arrondissement, that really confirmed and solidified where di Felice wants to lead the brand. “We called it Club Courrèges, and we will do it again every time after! he said on a Zoom call.
Courrèges Club is the name of its pre-autumn collection, a sort of reenactment of this wild epiphany of finally free dance, disguise and conviviality. The lookbook and video are populated by the crew of “friends and family” who attended the inaugural party. Here they are, lined up alone or in pairs against a graffiti wall on an abandoned Parisian railway line at night. You’ll get the vibe of anticipation by clicking on the music video: music pounding on the wall somewhere, a pan to a night sky and trees, the feeling of everyone strutting and posing in their tense bodies and brilliant while mentally tapping the ground to get to where the action is.
“I realized a lot of my friends dress like that,” di Felice said. Theoretically rolling out Courrèges’ “white carpet” in a setting that smacks more of illegal rave than your usual Parisian party says a lot about his state of mind. He’s convinced himself – “slowly, slowly, I want to take my time” – that he’d rather see his pieces on real people (which happens) than just take opinions from insiders in the bubble. fashion.
Maybe there’s something of the nostalgia for the underground events that were happening in clubs, fashion and music in Paris in the 90s about it. Or maybe Antwerp. Di Felice is Belgian, and he came to Paris and cut his teeth working at Balenciaga and Dior. What he and his friends did in their youth resonates enviably with Gen Z. Only what they – some of them – want to look like today is much sleeker and more exposing their bodies than your grunge of deconstructed basement from the 90s.