NOKI SS23 London Fashion Week Show


Established in 1996, Dr Noki is a proven member of the sustainability movement – being arguably one of the founders of the word even before it really became a thing. Founding his eponymous brand under the legacy of London’s 90s DIY rave scene, the groundbreaking designer has always walked a fearless path, delivering a message of rebellion.

NOKI aims to represent the voices of tomorrow, crafting handpicked upcycled clothing from vintage landfills, alongside its core range of head-turning distressed sportswear that features merged logos and designs from couture streetwear 1 on 1. Now it lands on the London Fashion Week calendar, featuring the brand’s SS23 collection.

When we spoke to Dr Noki in September 2020 about Fashion East’s legacy and offered an oral history of London’s industry disruptive talent, he said:

“I was in the middle of all these different London crews, coming from Camden, Soho, Portobello. And it was the Shoreditch days proper: out of my head, wrecked my boobs, surrounded by more people out of their breasts, destroyed and delirious becoming toxic. I’m not really fashionable; I’m not very good at being around the fashion industry. I tried, but it was going nowhere. The press was drying up I didn’t really feel like I could go any further with that, so I kind of backed off and started working on my art again.

However, his SS23 presentation felt right in the middle of that earlier statement. It was anti-fashion in every NOKI signature sense, subverting every type of look we’ve seen so far this season. This goes against the norm. He says “I don’t care about fashion”, when maybe you really do. That’s because, in a collection made up largely of recycled and distressed clothing, spiraling bootlegs of his NHS iconography, references to the world of sportswear, and sneakers like the Nike Air Force 1 or adidas Originals Stan Smith emblazoned personalized looks, it’s all there for someone who cares about their image, but not in a show-off way.

It all started with the label welcoming its choice of an intimate crowd in a room punctuated by classic compositions and decorated with chairs wearing custom NOKI t-shirts – some playing on themes that appeared in the show. The mood was pure excitement. Perhaps morale was lifted because of the show’s ratings, which instead of delivering lofty lines and hyperbole decided to describe the names of each artwork and watch: “FACEBOOK STARTS WAR” , “KAREN WITH AK”, “MONKEY POX” and “SHREDDED MINIONS ZINE.

The music then passed to JBL boomboxes playing different tunes depending on the model carrying it, Bluetooth from their individual phones. From there, the Hypebeast team whittled the presentation down to something suitable for The purge, but that wasn’t a bad thing. Bootlegs were messed up, slashes were random and then very precise to represent faces in clothing, low-rise elements combined with high-waisted additions to create subverted versions of traditional denim and sweatpants, which for us, is to fashion in its own right for all the best twisted ways.

It was a rave. Viewers brought the energy with their audible appreciation and consistent “oohs” and “aahs”, especially when the looks that entwined the ensemble’s hair and artwork with the model took center stage. . The models did whatever they wanted – Noki wore a look and threw t-shirts into the crowd from a model’s backpack in front of him, while others pulled their clothes down, or in other other cases, posed for the cameras, served fierce energy on the runway, and ultimately helped make the show the energetic showcase that it was.

Take a look at walking art from NOKI’s SS23 collection in the gallery above. More content from Hypebeast’s London Fashion Week SS23 can be found here and on our new Instagram account, @HypebeastUK.

For more LFW content, here are the top trends from this week’s showcase.


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